INTRODUCTION
This tramp was over the Easter four-day weekend, and the huts were booked out so we decided to camp each night. As such, we had big and heavy bags with the tents and food we needed, and so I tried to organise the trip to have easier days to suit the Easy-Medium (EM) listing.
In addition, as this is a “Great Walk” and over a popular weekend, there was quite a lot of administration required to book and pay for camp sites, water taxis and accommodation for travelling up.
DAY ONE – Thursday 2nd April
17:00 – Depart Wellington Railway Station
22:30 – Arrive Esk Valley
We booked to stay at the Esk Valley Holiday Park just north of Napier on Thursday night, which broke the travel well. We were able to rent two caravans to accommodate everyone – affordable and cosy, with hot showers and cooking facilities on hand … and something very ‘nostalgic’ about caravans!
DAY TWO – Friday 3rd April
08:00 – Depart Esk Valley
10:00 – Arrive Wairoa
10:30 – Depart Wairoa
11:30 – Arrive Bush Valley Holiday Park
12:30 – Depart Onepoto Bay by Water Taxi
14:00 – Depart Hopuruahine Landing after lunch
17:30 – Arrive Waiharuru Camp Site
Wairoa (Long Water) is the last stop before the gravel road leading to Lake Waikaremoana (Sea of Rippling Waters) and a good breakfast place … though beware of the coffee.
Our plan was to catch a water taxi to Hopuruahine (Musty Girl) Landing at the northern end of the walk and the tramp anti-clockwise. We had a stunning day to cross the lake on, and stopped for lunch at the first beach to take in our surroundings. The walk from there to our first camp site at Waiharuru (Rumbling Waters) was so pleasant – peaceful, calm and sunshine-filled, with only minor hills to tackle. We passed an electric fence which makes a large peninsula a dedicated Kiwi bird reserve, though sadly no sightings!
The camp site was separated a little from the hut, and had its own cooking shelter as well as direct access to swim in the lake. Everyone pitched in with prep and cleaning, and there was plenty of food to go round. After the long travel up to Te Urerwera we all (I think) slept soundly, despite the squeaking roll-mats.
DAY THREE – Saturday 4th April
09:00 – Depart Waiharuru
12:30 – Arrive Maraunui Camp Site for lunch
13:30 – Depart Maraunui Camp Site
16:45 – Arrive Korokoro Camp Site
The morning walk to Maraunui (Big war party) was just as pleasant as the day before, and we were equally lucky with fine weather. We stopped at Marauiti (Small war party) Hut for a break where some people swam. This hut is apparently often a lot more empty than the others as most trampers pass it by. It’s a lovely spot, and would make a great place to spend a few days doing not very much at all.
In the afternoon, we were challenged with a bit more altitude for the first time, and this meant that the journey was longer than we had assumed by around 45 minutes. We were all happy to arrive at Korokoro (Throat) where we camped, but had enough energy to make the very worthwhile side-trip from there to the spectacular Korokoro Falls – icy cold waters!
DAY FOUR – Sunday 5th April
09:00 – Depart Korokoro Camp Site
12:30 – Arrive Panekire Hut for lunch
13:30 – Depart Panekire Hut
17:30 – Arrive Korokoro Camp Site
Because Panekire (translation unknown) Hut on the ridge-top was fully booked and there is no camp ground there, we decided to stay two nights at Korokoro and spend the day in between ascending the ridge for the view, with daypacks only. Unfortunately the weather didn’t behave, and although the majority of the group did go to Panekire, the clouds and drizzle came in and took away the vistas. However, the walk up to the tops and back was straight-forward, and there’s a new wide track just completed making it an easy walk despite the roughly 600 m gain in altitude. Certainly, Tararua-training made it easy-peasy, lemon-squeezy!
On our return to Korokoro, hunters had moved in by boat with deluxe tents, and they were off chasing the stag roars we had heard over the last few days. Others had also arrived by boat and played cheesy hits for a good part of the evening … very surreal. I think we heard Hotel California at least twice, but the monotony of the selections compounded the effect!
DAY FIVE – Monday 6th April
08:00 – Depart Korokoro by Water Taxi
08:45 – Arrive Onepoto Bay
09:15 – Depart Big Bush Holiday Park
10:00 – Arrive Wairoa for short break
12:30 – Arrive Napier for hot pools and lunch
13:30 – Depart Napier
18:30 – Arrive Wellington Railway Station
We had an early-morning water-taxi from Korokoro back to the start, which again was a stunning journey to take with a much moodier sky this time. The hot drinks available at the Big Bush Holiday Park were sublime, and the cowboy saddle bar-stools rounded off the experience to make sure we were ready for anything else that might come our way.
Thanks to all who went on this adventure with me. I haven’t been with a group who gelled so well and pitched in to help so enthusiastically for some time – super dooper!