After 6 months of casual day trips and regular wine and cheese tasting overseas, I wondered what the best way would be to get back into tramping in NZ… and the answer appeared on the trip schedule listed as a Emily’s MF trip “Waiohine Pack Float via Jacs Biv”: good company, some tops travel, another biv to bag, some steep hills and packfloating along a remote river in the Tararuas – I was in!
Friday – walking into Jumbo Hut (just over 3 hrs)
Because I was in tramping withdrawal and had time on my hands I thought ‘Why not make it a three day weekend?’
Jamie and I headed to Atiwhakatu Hut early, on Thursday night, and then visited the remains of Angle Knob Hut and bagged McGregor Biv on Friday – but that’s a story for another day. By the time the two of us were having dinner at Jumbo Hut, Emily, James and Josh had reached the Holdsworth Road end and were making their way to Jumbo Hut, in the dark. Not only did they have regular overnight packs, flies and wetsuits, they were also carrying two heavy bags of dog and human food to leave at Jumbo Hut – lending a generous hand to a tramper who was undertaking a 9-week long hut bagging mission in the Tararua range with 3 dogs in tow. It was an eventful walk in the dark for them, with sightings of wetas and what were thought to be the famous but elusive carnivorous snails – Powelliphanta – a highlight!
Saturday – Waiohine pack float via Jacs Biv (11 hrs including 6.5 hrs in the Waiohine River)
While Jamie headed back to the road end to attend important birthday business in Wellington, the rest of us left the hut early – at around 7.30am. We started at a good pace up to Pakeahurangi/Jumbo (a highpoint on the Tararua Range) – such a good pace that I had time to question whether I’d be able to keep up for the rest of the weekend. But I was soon reassured by Emily and the team that I should do just fine (except maybe for the uphill sections!).
We made our way across the tops towards Angle Knob without stopping, in strong winds. The gusts were not as bad as I had expected, but it was like night and day in comparison with the clear and still day Jamie and I had on the tops less than 24 hrs before.
We dropped down to McGregor Biv, and quickly found an orange marker indicating where to enter the bushline to follow the old NZDA track to Dorset Creek. The track was well marked but sometimes easy to lose as it was slightly overgrown in places and there was a bit of windfall.
We stopped for an early lunch at Dorset Creek and put on our wetsuits. All our belongings had already been carefully double packed into dry bags and packliners. After a few river safety instructions – sing out if you get cold, don’t forget to eat and drink, feet first when you’re floating – we were on our way.
While we were hoping to stay dry for a while to avoid getting cold too quickly, we found ourselves in chest deep water within minutes. Luckily the weather was clearing, there was no wind in the Gorge, and the sun made some welcome apparitions throughout the rest of the day.
The way to Jacs Biv required alternating criss-crossing the river, scrambling on the sides, climbing over and down large boulders, and at times just swimming/pack floating through deep pools. We developed several techniques to pack float through the deepest pools, leaning back into our packs, pedalling as if riding a bike, ‘skiing’ with walking poles (i.e. pushing ourselves forward to gain momentum), using our arms breaststroke style, or simply taking faster rapids – not without scratching our bums on rocks at times!
While there was no particular challenge in this section, travel was slow – we sometimes had to take our packs off to navigate steeper drop-offs or squeeze between boulders – and it took about 4 hrs to reach Jacs Biv from Dorset Creek, with minimal stops. The Biv is a little tricky to spot from the river, as it sits about 10 -15 m above it and is located a tad North of the location indicated on the topo map.
Once at the Biv, it was an easy decision to carry on to Mid-Waiohine Hut. While we were only half-way through the river section, we still had plenty of daylight and were hoping travel might get a bit easier and faster as the river looked less gorge-y towards Mid-Waiohine Hut. And it was!
After a few more swims in deep waters, we could move at a reasonable pace and follow a few goats and their tracks along the river side. About 2 h 30 mins later we reached Mid-Waiohine Hut, where we found Sara’s Medium group and another party of four people. After pitching flies and having hot drinks and Emily’s special tuna and boiled egg curry (yum), we quickly turned in for a well deserved night of sleep.
Sunday – Out to road end via Holdsworth Trig (about 6 hrs 30 min)
We had a slow morning repacking our tents and damp wetsuits, and left the hut after the two other groups had.
I got a little head start and slowly started crawling my way up the dreaded hill – having not really encountered anything like the Tararuas in the last 6 months I expected it to be a slog, but this was really something. The three others quickly caught up with me and kindly waited for me at regular intervals on the way to Isabelle (a high point on the Tararua Range) – as I inched my way upwards, questioning my life choices and dreaming of soft furniture to sit on. A wasp nest provided a distraction half way up the hill, and a few stings for Josh.
By the time we reached the bushline, we were just behind the medium group. After a lunch stop and mini-climb challenge on the Holdsworth Trig we headed down towards Powell Hut and on autopilot on the well-known Gentle Annie Track. One foot in front of the other, a quick stop at the Mountain House shelter and we were out in the blink of an eye.
We took the time for a refreshing swim at the road end and stopped for ice creams and pies on the drive home. The best way to finish off another adventurous weekend in the Tararuas!
Friday
Road end to Jumbo Hut: 3-3 hrs 30 min.
Saturday
Jumbo Hut to Dorset Creek, via McGregor Biv: 5 hrs
Dorset Creek to Jacs Biv: 4 hrs
Jacs Biv to Mid-Waiohine Hut: 2hrs 30 min
Sunday
Mid Waiohine Hut to Holdsworth road end, via Powell Hut: 6 hrs 30 min
River travel tips
Wetsuits all the way! There are pools you have to swim through (there is no way to go around them). You spend a long time in the river, but we didn’t stop very much and everyone managed to keep warm. Double bag all your belongings, and make sure your bags and packliner are dont’ have any holes… or you might find a slightly damp sleeping bag and soggy dessert at the bottom of your pack!