At lunchtime on Friday 3rd January, our group of 7 EM trampers along with the MF group, met at the Wellington train station bound for Nelson Lakes National Park.
We had a smooth sailing across the Cook Strait before bad weather hit Wellington! However, we didn’t escape the rain in Picton. As the rain pelted against the windows on our drive to St Arnaud, we were all slightly dreading having to put our tents up – but luck was on our side when the skies started to clear just as we arrived in St Arnaud.
We planned on having fish and chips for dinner at the only takeaway shop in town, but they put out their closed sign just as we arrived. So instead, we tried the only restaurant. They were fully booked for dinner, but took pity on us and made takeaway pizzas and wedges.
We then ate our dinner beside Lake Rotoiti, whilst watching the eels. After this we headed to Kerr Bay campground to set up our tents amongst the pesky sandflies.
On Saturday morning, we packed up camp and drove to the Mount Robert carpark.
We then set off walking around the west side of Lake Rotoiti for around 2 hours before stopping for lunch at Coldwater Hut.
We then needed to cross the Travers River. After trialing a shortcut suggested by a fellow tramper (through wetlands – which ended in a bog and a bit of a tumble) we found a safe spot and crossed the multiple braided streams of the River. Carolyn, Tawera and myself successfully managed to keep our boots dry.
Our afternoon was spent at Lakehead Hut in the sun and exploring some of the east side of Lake Rotoiti, including a refreshing swim in the Lake.
Our original plan for Sunday had been to head back to Coldwater Hut, explore Travers Valley and reach Angelus Hut via Cascade Saddle. However, at our morning meeting, Harry suggested heading up to Hopeless Hut, and crossing Sunset Saddle to reach Angelus Hut. We were all up for an adventure and eagerly agreed to the change.
So off we set up Travers Valley, which was a nice gentle track. About an hour in, after a couple of small tumbles, Tony’s old ankle injury flared up, and he made the tough decision to turn back to Coldwater Hut and not continue with the group. Harry had years of experience leading and tramping in Nelson Lakes National Park, so he was elected the new group leader. We all sadly said goodbye to Tony and continued up the Valley. Just before the turn off to Hopeless Hut, we bumped into Sara and one of the MF group trampers who had twisted his ankle badly.
They were both planning on heading to Coldwater Hut as well. So we made a plan that Sara would walk to Coldwater Hut and then return up the Valley to meet us that evening at Hopeless Hut.
The track to Hopeless Hut was a gentle climb between the towering rocky peaks of the mountains. It took us approximately 5 hours to reach the Hut, with a few stops and a good lunch break. The Hut is nestled in a valley at the base of a large avalanche route that looked like it was coming right into the window! We had the 6 bed hut basically all to ourselves. Harry surprised us all with a cake and candle for dessert, whilst Georgia played solitaire.
The following morning (Monday) we headed off early and followed the cairns up the rocky river bed of Sunset Saddle. We then boulder hopped up the side of a waterfall to avoid scaling up a steep scree slope.
It was time for a morning tea stop at the first tarn before we continued the long slog of boulder hopping and climbing up to the saddle at 1900 m. The view was breathtaking, with not a cloud in the sky; we were able to see the Richmond Range and beyond. After a break, Sara, Harry, Georgia, Tawera and myself decided to summit Mt Angelus (2075 m).
We started going up a track to the right of the saddle, but decided the drop off was too steep on the other side. So instead we took the route up the western ridge to the summit, which Harry had done many years before. After a slightly hair-raising scree slope at the top of the summit, we were all in awe of the view. At least the descent was a lot easier!
We then headed down the gradually descending track around the tarns to Angelus Hut (at 1600 m), which took us around 1 1/2 hrs. A fully-booked 30 bed hut was a big change from the quiet 6 bed Hopeless Hut, but the views of the tarns and surrounding peaks were stunning.
After a 9 hour day, we were all exhausted, but our desire for adventure was still strong as we contemplated options for day walks the following day. Sara considered a long side trip to Sabine Hut (and then looping back around to Speargrass Hut). Harry thought this was too extreme after the day we had just had, but suggested we could follow the Mt Robert Ridge track for a bit and then ‘bog it off down the side’ on an unmarked track he had done many years ago!
That night, Sara and Harry tented at the the Mt Angelus campsite, in the hope of a more peaceful night’s sleep. However, poor Sara ended up being kept awake most of the night by the world’s loudest snorers in the neighbouring tent.
The next day, 4 of us settled on a 1 1/2 hour there-and-back walk along Mt Robert Ridge to admire the view. And the others had a relaxed morning in the sun at Angelus Hut.
After lunch and a swim in Lake Angelus, we all packed up and headed for Speargrass Hut. The track descended for 3 hours down a valley filled with wildflowers and streams, but it had very little shelter from the burning sun. In places it was steep and slippery on scree slopes, but the rest of the time it was a well-formed track.
Speargrass Hut was fully booked for the night, with many other hopeful trampers arriving from the Travers-Sabine route looking for a bed. But instead they had to settle for camping.
The medium-fit group arrived a few hours after us and shared their stories from an exciting but exhausting trip. After a few hours of playing cards, it was time for bed.
We woke the next day to steady rain, but luckily, we were sheltered in the bush for the 2 1/2 hour walk back to Mount Robert carpark. The track was mainly flat and very well formed. We were even lucky enough to see a Kākā along the way.
There was a feeling of sadness as we returned into civilization, with many of us wanting to do the trip all over again. But then we realised most of us had just run out of toilet paper (turns out a full roll lasts 5 days exactly!). We waited at the lookout over Lake Rotoiti and St Arnaud for the MF group to bring the van up to the top carpark and to reunite with Tony.
Once everyone was back together, we headed into St Arnaud for a snack stop before heading to Picton for even more food.
With our stomachs satisfied, we boarded the ferry back to Wellington. It was a slightly rockier ride than the sailing over had been. We arrived in Wellington at 10.30 pm and tiredly said our goodbyes to each other.
This was a trip none of us will forget and it was a delight to meet so many new friends and to push ourselves out of our comfort zones!
- Mt Robert Carpark to Lakehead Hut – 4 hours
- Lakehead Hut to Hopeless Hut – 5 hours
- Hopeless Hut to Angelus Hut – 8 hours
- Angelus Hut to Speargrass Hut – 3 hours
- Speargrass Hut to Mt Robert Roadend – 3 hours