When we set forth on the Great Walk we hoped our way would be lit by the moon but it was still well below the horizon. Walking by torchlight and in silence it feels like one is in ones own world, thoughts slow down and there are only the night noises to keep you company. Because it was 16 months since I carried a pack and longer for Pete all energy and thoughts went into walking. We were grateful that the track at the western end of the Abel Tasman Coastal walk was on an old farm road and had a gentle gradient. Reaching the saddle, the moon was rising through the trees and out into the wide open and starry sky. Our friend who had taken us to the road end pointed us in the right direction and bid us ‘adieu’ before disappearing into the darkness.
Arriving at Whariwharangi Hut we explored the many bunk rooms. This hut is the old farmhouse and had a cosy feel about it. We boiled the billy and warmed ourselves with a brew before rolling out our sleeping bags. The stars were all out and it was cold making us feel very pleased that we had brought our homemade polypro liners. The next morning frost was everywhere including on the sand just behind the beach.
About three minutes from the Whariwharangi Hut was the first of many golden beaches. It was so beautiful I took my pack off and danced along the beach. The sun was shining out of a brilliant blue sky and was to do so for much of the 4-day trip but the air was too cold for shorts. The walking was easy, giving us time to admire the changing views and sounds. Sounds of seals, waves lapping gently onto the beach, bright greens in the forest contrasting strongly with the stringy brown bark of the kanuka made for a kaleidoscope of colours and even lunching beside the car park at the Totaranui campsite did not detract from the beauty of the place.
At Awaroa Estuary the shadows were long and the tide was just within the limits of when our notes said you could cross safely. It still looked dodgy but as the choices were standing in the cold shadow of the hill, standing in the sun on wet muddy sand with crabs scuttling around or crossing the expanse of water we went for the later. We took off our boots and socks and rolled up our long johns. Nobody could have prepared me for how cold, cold water can be. I think I spent the first five minutes of the 20min crossing exclaiming about the cold and at Awaroa Hut it took a hot brew and piece of Mum’s fruit cake before I felt human again.
The next day the ‘sky trail’ gave fantastic views of the Awaroa Estuary and then it was down the other side of the headland for our second wade. The water was no warmer today. We had morning tea in the company of a pair of paradise ducks and a seagull. They squabbled over our crumbs and were not shy in coming forward. Later in the day a kereru sat looking at us either unperturbed by our appearance or too heavy from a meal of fresh supple-jack berries to be able to take off. Although there was not much bird life they certainly were not frightened of us.
The cluster of buildings and campsite at Bark Bay was like a little village. We shared the hut with two Belgians, two Brazilians and one Mexican. They ate Tim Tams and drank wine for dinner making our ‘dehy’ mince, spud and peas seem rather mundane. Needless to say they did not seem to rise very early the next morning!
Anchorage Hut was our home for the last night. We shared the hut with a party of 12 from Rangitoto College. Well behaved and very entertaining. The girls clearly did not feel the cold as they washed their hair out side and the bunk room smelt like a deodorant bottle. The smell of deodorant was more pleasant than the boots and socks drying by the heater. Several yachts were anchored in the bay.
The last day saw us walking through many invasive weeds and passing day trippers and with the wind picking up and clouds gathering in the sky we finished the trip. Throughout the four days we never tired of the golden beaches intersected by forest covered headlands, delightful streams and rivers with the occasional waterfall. Winter was the ideal time with few people and the Abel Tasman Coastal walk had been an ideal trip for people who had dusted off their packs and boots.