Whenever I sign up for a trip like this it is because I have absolutely no idea what the trip is apart from there will be some glaciers and ice plateaus and so “yes please” pops out well before my rational side can pipe in with “Hmmm well that must also mean crossing some potentially very tricky country… am I sure I am up to it?”
Months of blissful ignorance followed. And then the trip planning began in earnest. Maps and plans appeared and were placed in front of me. “Hmmmm looks a bit gnarly and like the packs will weigh a tonne, better start running and update to some lighter gear” was the direction of my thoughts.
Then, a few weeks out from the trip, David (the trip leader) sent round a link to a website with some photographs of the area. I took a look… “Crikey!” Near vertical bluffs, lumpy twisted icefalls and rotten rock loomed in every shot. “People can’t travel through that – these kiwis are mad!” Running and gear checks were supplemented with praying to any God that would listen.
If I had taken something to write with (I left my pencil behind to save weight) my daily diary might have looked like what follows.
Day 1
After delays due to a lack of visibility the helicopter finally dropped us off on Lambert tops. Oh shite it is even worse than expected. In deep do-do now. Somehow David finds a reasonable route over to the Garden of Allah and a protected camp. The clouds cleared for us to see the Garden of Allah and Lambert glacier just as we crested the col, so at least we have seen it. Clag at camp with brief glimpses of our very spectacular surroundings. Mike has invented the term “beaumonting” which I take to mean something like extreme positiveness in the face of both discomfort and peril.
Day 2
Driving sleet from midnight to about 4am. Wake to clag. Later in day get out of pit for a day trip up to Satan’s saddle and a look over our route for tomorrow. Fantastic views. See a reasonable size lump of ice fall off Mt. Lambert slopes on the way back. Can hear things moving over on the Lambert Glacier. Clag at camp still. Choci bikkies are yum!
Day 3
Move camp over to the top of the Adams Glacier. Variable clag with fantastic views. I am the bunny in the middle on our rope: Mike – me – Jenny. Either way if someone falls in, I am next in line. Can’t get to the unfrozen parts of the lake, so it is melting snow for water still. This uses lots of fuel so we will have to get off the glaciers soon. That will be interesting. Hoping the clag will clear for the descent.
Day 4
Frozen boots this morning. Morning trip to go bag the Garden of Eden. Variable clag with views. Views fantastic still. Back to camp for quick lunch and pack for the potentially tricky descent to Adams flats. Somehow David finds a reasonable route. I go bolshie at crossing something we have called “the slab”. David and Mike have to ‘restrain me’ to get me to cross (on belay). First camp not on snow. We have desserts to celebrate New Years eve and surviving 2009 in one piece. Mmmm the apple pie is very good or I am very hungry. Saw my first rock wren, a friendly pair of kea and a few thar on the descent.
Day 5
Cross the Speculation range to get to next possible camp site. Off the snow, but still using crampons due to steep, wet snow grass. Gnarly and more traumatic as it wasn’t expected.
Never relax. David and Mike shepherd us through. Mostly clag. Rain holds off until we reach the campsite. Blue duck arrive in the creek just after us – nice.
Day 6
Pit day. Rain until early morning and then lifts and clears about mid-day. David declares a day of rest and gear drying. Play 500 in the afternoon sun. Get sun burnt. Show David the blood blisters on the balls of my feet, but he doesn’t care. He is right – I got myself in to this and I will have to get myself out. Besides everyone else has their own small niggles now too. The packs might be lighter, but we are also less fresh. Good decision by David.
Day 7
Biblical rain until early evening. Pit day II. Troops are getting a little restless, but I enjoy a good sloth session. Gossip a few hours away with Jenny. Then finish the day with a few rounds of hearts with Mike and Jenny in the tent followed by more sleep.
Day 8
Wake to a damp looking day but rain holds off. Leave for our next camp along the Wilberg range, where some tops must be bypassed. Mostly clag, with some nice views at times. Nice to get back on some snow, but could have done without the driving sleet. Big day, but find it less hairy than crossing the Speculation range. Could be getting de-sensitised to it all. Somehow David and Mike find a reasonable route. Blood blisters are from crampons – but have to have them on. Still got a good amount of food. Chocolate mostly gone, but think Mike still has a few blocks left.
Day 9
Plan was to make it out today all things going well. Getting over to Mt. Wilberg takes most of the morning. An old faint route with some markers is picked up from there and gives quick access off of the tops with Mike and David leading the way. The route is optimal as it lands us in a creek that leads back close to town. Fantastic. Suck down a vegeburger, wedges and most of a chocolate cake. Mmmmm town food. Then the clean up begins. Body quietly getting on with its own repairs. Thankfully nothing major. At least one God must have been listening.