Daphne Hut – Ruahine Forest Park


Friday 8 September:
The team met at Wellington train station and set off for Anzac Park (the one in Norsewood, not Palmerston North). Dinner was had enroute at the very originally named Indian Taj; a warning to future visitors, the staff implement the term “mild” in the most English sense. Tents were quickly pitched on arrival at Anzac Park, with one team member realising they were sans sleeping bag. A cold night ensued. For those unfamiliar with the campsite, what it lacks in drinking water it makes up for with possums. Packing extra water and storing perishables in vehicles is strongly advised.


Saturday 9 September:
The following morning the sun was up moderately bright and early with us to match. Our fellow campers from another club trip had a spare sleeping bag, so that all could be toasty warm come evening. Kit was loaded by 7.40 am and we were rearing for the off, to Norsewood Café. If there is one takeaway from the trip, it is that Norsewood Café is an amazing place for an early morning coffee and croissant.

Following a leisurely breakfast, we departed for the road end. Kashmir Rd is a forestry track with a steep incline and is festooned with “4wd only” signs. We ignored these. Halfway up said incline traction was lost and Plan B was implemented. This consisted of our courageous trip leader making a passable impression of Stirling Moss (British Formula One driver) while we walked up behind her. For future trips a 4wd is recommended if you don’t want that “is my insurance paid up?” feeling.

Ready to tackle that hill

Track end thus reached, we began our climb by going downhill into a creek-side marsh and crossing the shallow Moorcock Stream. Once the climb proper began, it was brisk. The steepness closely matching the plummeting confidence in our (read my) fitness. After an energetic hour, the first knoll was reached, with a gentle ridgeline and views of snowcapped peaks to follow.

The best place for a lunch break

We reached the north branch of the Tukituki River by early afternoon, where we ate lunch with differing levels of gusto. The river section to the hut took just under an hour and was punctuated by fiercely territorial Whio, letting us know we were intruding. We took longer on the river section than the DOC estimated time, largely because the riverside gravel banks were washed out in many place due to damage from Cyclone Gabrielle. The river (and consequently the inside of our boots) was fresh, albeit shallow enough to not pose a hazard. Daphne Hut was reached by 2.55 pm.

River travel
Daphne Hut

Daphne Hut is a standard, 12-bunk hut with sleeping spaces on three levels. There’s a fireplace, which we didn’t need, and the river is your source of water. Daphne Hut has an A-frame design and is well appointed, to the point of having air freshener and bog roll in the long drop. This naturally gave rise to enthusiastic discussion regarding the comparative advantages of different hut designs.

Sunshine and mountain views

Given our early arrival, the afternoon was our own. Team members divided their time between short river walks, reading, and naps to pass the time. Dinner was the famed WTMC Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese Pasta, which was thoroughly enjoyed by all. For dessert, we shared a fruit cake from the Norsewood Café (are you noticing a theme here?). The team turned in for bed shortly after for a deep and … WAIT WAS THAT A POSSUM? sleep.


Sunday 10 September:
Sunday morning, we were up even brighter and earlier for another perfectly clear day. After a rapid breakfast we set off at 8.05 am, straight into the stream for an early morning paddle. Retracing our steps from the day before we made rapid progress, slowing only for the steep uphill that now went down. We arrived at the road end shortly after noon, having passed on lunch.

A delayed lunch was consumed at the outstanding Norsewood Café. The combination of jellytip cheesecake and chocolate thickshake was very much worth the delay (have you got the hint yet?).

The return trip was uneventful with the full complement being dropped home – thanks Jane!


Completely candid quotes:
– “The dinner was exceptional” -Debbie
– “The riverbank was a perfect spot for lunch” -Debbie
– “Glad I finally got to try it [the pasta]” -Karen
– “Relieved and pleased the river travel was not as difficult as it might have been and was quite fun” -Jane
– “If you’ve got a walking pole, stick it in ahead of you to find the deep spots [in the stream]” -Jane

Track Times:
Day 1 (Kashmir Rd carpark to Daphne Hut): 9.55 am -2.55 pm (5 hours)
Day 2 (Daphne Hut to Kashmir Rd carpark): 8.05 am -12.25 pm (4 hours 20 minutes)