The original plan was to access Mt McKay (2300m) from the Sabine Valley but once we discovered that the water taxi across Lake Rotoroa was closed for the winter and that the avalanche risk was high we opted instead to approach via the Rainbow Valley.
The Rainbow Valley is home to cattle as well as Canadian geese so it is best to focus on the views around you rather than what you are walking in. We parked the Club van under a big pylon and headed up valley following the river. Despite the light drizzle and low cloud, once we passed Rainbow gorge we had partial views of the lower halves of many of the peaks that are alleged to inhabit the eastern part of Nelson Lakes NP including Mt Paske (2216m), Beldevere (2114m), Kehu Peak (2220m) and Mt Chittenden (2205m).
We stopped for lunch where Paske stream joins the Rainbow and debated whether to abandon our designs on Mt McKay in favour of a warm, dry bed at Paske hut. Although the forecast was pessimistic it was not actually raining so we decided to keep heading up the Rainbow and camp as planned where the Rainbow separates into north and south branches. So we wandered past the turn off to the Begley valley and searched out a sheltered campsite relatively free of rocks, mud, snow and cow pats. We should be so lucky…
From above our campsite we had good views back down the Rainbow and up towards the lower slopes of what we are pretty sure were Kehu and McKay. While David went in search of a feasible route through the clouds the rest of us built a fire. We spent a pleasant evening fire side endeavouring to dry out our wet socks without burning holes into them. In this game, Nigel and myself were the big losers but I drew some comfort from the fact that any holes were on the top of my sock rather than areas where coverage is more critical such as the toes or heel. Harry was disqualified because his socks already had holes in their heels before they went anywhere near the fire.
It didn’t rain in the night. We got up early on Saturday thinking the weather had defied expectations and that we would have little choice but to attempt an ascent of Mt McKay. This sense of opportunity lasted for about half an hour then the drizzle arrived and got more persistent and the clouds came down to meet us obscuring the route. Thinking that navigation would be difficult and that we would only be able to see the inside of clouds anyway we had a change of heart. We elected to strike camp and retreat to Paske Hut. Only 2 out of our party of 7 said “I told you so” within my hearing.
The walk back down the Rainbow and then up Paske creek was pleasant enough, especially if you were not at the front trying to make steps in the soft snow. As a snow wader Mike now enjoys a reputation without parallel. He hardly complained at all. His stoicism was rewarded by the rest of us failing to offer to share the burden. Once at Paske hut we were able to get a fire going and enjoy an afternoon of cards fuelled by sour worms and chocolate. In order to up the ante Harry promised to swim if he lost. Demonstrating strategic nous to a degree not always evidenced in the actual card games he left open minor details such as when and where. By the time we retired for the night it was one game all. You could have cut the tension with an unopened Swiss army knife.
Sunday dawned clear and cold. Ant took care to restock the woodshed. I am almost certain others offered to assist with this task. His activity was definitely the focus of close supervision by multiple parties. As a wood gatherer and chopper Ant now enjoys a reputation without parallel. We were able to pack up and head back down Paske creek in the soft snow with Mike in the lead. At least we had yesterday’s footprints to sink into.
There had not been any talk of swimming, and we were one game all in the cards so I was slightly surprised to see Mike take a quick dip in the Rainbow towards the end of the walk out. No he wasn’t pushed, although he may well have been if Harry and I had known then that he and Steve were going to defeat us in the third match decider on the ferry.