We had a lovely trip to Roaring Stag Hut in the northern Tararua Ranges (Mangatainoka Valley) in the first weekend of October 2021. Five of us met at the usual spot at Wellington Train Station (very grateful to be leaving on a Saturday morning!), and our leader, Anne, kindly drove us the 2 1/2 hours to the start of the track at Putara Roadend. On the way we stopped in Featherston for caffeine and a delicious pastry treat at a shop called the “Bakery”. This was the start of a conversation (which lasted the whole weekend!) about a proposed new book – on the subject of good bakeries at different locations around the country that members can refer to on club trips!
As we headed closer and closer to Putara Roadend, the weather became more and more grey and stormy – but luckily the rain stopped shortly after we started walking. Close to the start of the track we crossed the first of 3 swing bridges – this one crossed Mangatainoka River. It was great to be in the bush again! – and the sound of the river, which we walked beside for some time, instantly made you feel relaxed.
Great views crossing the 2nd swing bridge. I have no fear of heights – so I delighted in looking down the whole way across – surveying the river on both sides, enjoying the views and stopping to take photos at the middle of the bridge.
The next hour or so was the hardest – a steep climb to get to the top of Herepai Ridge. Especially tiring for those of us who hadn’t been tramping for a while (well, over a year) due to COVID! But fellow trampers kindly helped to share my load, and our kind and patient leader provided encouragement and let me take my time to get to the top. One of our group, Monique, also informed us about the NZ Topo50 app that she had on her phone – the best $5 she said she has ever spent – and kept us in good spirits with regular updates on how many metres we’d climbed and how many metres left till the top.
Once at the top of the Ridge, we stopped at “the intersection” for lunch – a track junction, with a signpost pointing in 3 directions – the way we’d come, Roaring Stag Hut to the left (another 3.8km or 2.5 hrs) or Herepai Hut to the right (another 1.5 km or 1 hour). Monique did a quick trip down to Herepai Hut while the rest of us sat down and had lunch – and also chatted to random trampers who walked by.
After lunch it was along the ridge and then down the otherside of the hill (at a much gentler gradient) to Roaring Stag Hut. Quite boggy in several areas, so we had filthy boots and gaiters by the time we got to the hut. Along the way we saw loads of Matai, Crown Fern and Umbrella fern, and heard very little birdlife until we were on our downward journey to the hut.
It was busy at the 12 bed hut that Saturday night – we were some of the last people to arrive, but luckily we each secured a place to sleep. The other trampers there were nice and friendly, and easy to chat with. There was the usual chat about each other’s tramping experiences and equipment/ gear, card- playing, and a Canadian man who talked about trout fishing for about an hour.
Anne kindly cooked us dinner – a delicious Red Lentil and Coconut Dhal recipe (on rice) from the tramping club’s new cookbook. I highly recommend this recipe! The rest of the group helped prepare the ingredients, and did the dishes.
It was a fun night socialising with everyone there, or having some quiet time indoors in front of the fire. One of the trampers was a young guy who was doing a review of Roaring Stag Hut for his Youtube channel “Lost Kiwi”. I recommend checking his channel out – he uploads videos about various back country huts of NZ and road trips etc. Haven’t seen the one about Roaring Stag Hut on his channel yet – perhaps he is still editing it. Some of us also sat on the porch and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the wilderness at night – a beautiful dark clear sky – full of bright stars (including the milky way), the sound of the river flowing (Ruamahanga River) and an owl in the distance.
Next morning, it was wonderful waking up to the clearly audible sound of the river – at first I actually thought it was raining! We were up and ready to walk back over the hill fairly promptly, but I was alarmed -when putting my Scarpa tramping boots on -to see that the soles had practically detached from both boots! I was wondering how I’d be able to walk the 4-5 hours back, but luckily they held on (possibly helped by my gaiters) and I made it back to the van without having to walk in bare feet! Tip: later, talking to staff at MacPac, I learned that you need to walk in your boots regularly or the glue holding the soles in place weakens and they can fall apart. My boots had been a victim of Covid! (or at least the lack of outback adventures associated with it). It was an expensive lesson – I now need to buy new boots- but one I will not forget!
Thanks to Anne for organising a fantastic, seamless trip and to all the attendees. It was great company – we had some great talks, and a fun time. A most enjoyable weekend – and we were really refreshed for the week ahead.