We set off from Wellington Train Station a little later than usual, at 7pm. This allowed us to avoid peak traffic and we made good time to Bulls to grab a falafel and beverage.
It was then on to Braemar House, in Whanganui (our accommodation for the night), arriving at 9.40pm. We’d booked one large room and a couple of bunks in a dorm.
On Saturday morning we left our accommodation at 8.30 am and headed to the Whanganui Market, where we had coffee and pastries.
Back on SH 3, we were so mesmerised by the spectacular view of Mt Taranaki that we missed the sneaky turn off to Waitōtara Valley Road. We therefore backtracked and located the left turn that circled back to the right under the bridge and follows the Waitōtara River.
We then drove the 43 km to Taumatatahi Road end, mainly travelling on sealed roads and passing through lush farmland that housed cows and a smatter of goats. The bleats of a young, motherless kid goat gave us brief pause to consider rural realities. There were no other vehicles at the road end, giving us a good inkling that we might have Trains Hut all to ourselves. Nonetheless, we had our camping gear ready to go, if needed.
The track started with a short stint through a muddy field before linking up with a 4WD track which we followed for the best part of an hour. The combination of short daylight hours, a week of showers and the presence of cattle meant conditions underfoot were muddy. We had timed our visit to coincide with a two day break in a week of rain, so we had the pleasure of walking above the glistening Waitōtara River along a sun-laden track.
We were slightly perplexed to discover the first (of three) swing bridges sitting above a tunnel culvert. Zaw opted to explore the optional swing bridge alternative before rejoining us on the road. We then pushed beyond the turnoff to Kapara farm and started to make our way along the track which was cut into the high ledges above Waitōtara River and side gorges. The second and third swing bridges were a little loose with a minor tilt.
The conditions made for an adventurous and slow walk, as we had to slog through numerous muddy bogs, carefully thread our way through some awkward tree fall and clamber over greasy rocks in some sharp hairpin turns that sat above some plunging stream beds. Long sections of the track featured sheer drop-offs, so we really needed to take care in the slippery conditions. The group did an excellent job of sticking together and taking care with each obstacle. Luckily there weren’t too many tree roots.
Carolyn and Lia identified a sunny spot with an outlook to the river for our late lunch break. The group delighted in debating whether a ball of fur perched above the track was from a rabbit or a possum. Those leading the way also had a few encounters with goats and Zaw saw a kererū in the trees above.
After lunch we crossed a minor and relatively stable slip without too much difficulty and moved onto a more drier and well-graded track. We reached Omaru Stream, and soon afterwards saw Terereohaupa Falls. And Trains Hut wasn’t far away. The Hut is located in an open tussock clearing where you’d be able to pitch tents.
Due to the muddy conditions, it had taken us nearly 5 1/2 hours (including lunch break) to reach the Hut. We estimate it would take an hour less in drier conditions.
There hadn’t been many people in the area over winter and the Hut was in good condition. We saw signs that the Hut was being used on a semi-regular basis as a gear drop off point. With a bit of reorganisation we were able to comfortably fit the seven of us in the bunk area, which featured new mattresses.
We had about an hour of sunlight after reaching the Hut, so most of the group took the opportunity to explore the immediate area, and found more attractive waterfalls in the stream.
With the weather being so mild, some of us decided to freshen up in the shallow nearby pools. Paddy artfully stoked the pot-belly fireplace helping to ensure we would have a warm and comfortable evening at the hut.
With the sun setting we turned our minds to the evening meal. Cooking a Red Lentil and Coconut Dhal for seven of us, with limited bench space, required a bit of co-ordination. Carolyn was on Dhal duty, Zaw took care of the rice, and Jeremy and Paddy sliced and diced.
For dessert we had baked cookies made by Paddy and ginger and chocolate sweets were provided by other group members.
We then played several rounds of cards – “Three up three down” and “Up the River, Down the River”. Our preparations for sleep were interspersed with nocturnal encounters with plump possums hanging like furry fruit from arboreal perches.
Forearmed with the knowledge that we’d need a little extra time to return to the road end, we eschewed a Sunday morning sleep in and set about getting away before the morning dew had evaporated from the tussock. Early risers were rewarded with a sparkling panoply of scattered stars. Then mist crept silently through the pre-dawn darkness of the forest to blanket the river flats in condensation.
After we’d given the hut a much needed tidy, Zaw ensured that we had photographic evidence of our temporary occupation. Our walk out took about the same time as our walk in – this included a little off-track exploration. Carolyn’s native fauna guidebook assisted in some casual botanising.
Lia and Jeremy discovered an intriguing tunnel burrowing 40 m through the hillside – which linked a side stream to the main Waitōtara River. On our way out a few of us opted for the alternative swing bridge experience, given it had held Zaw’s weight on the way in.
The river itself was a study in languor, a barely moving brownish ripple, pushing slowly through verdant banks. There was a smattering of birdlife on the river – paradise shelducks and mallard ducks, but no Whio.
As we approached the road end, we missed where the track joined the road and therefore ended up wandering into a paddock containing a rather hefty bull, possibly a Hereford. Some of us stuck closely to the perimeter fence and prepared to evacuate without our packs, if need be. Fortunately, asserting territoriality wasn’t uppermost on the bull’s mind.
After cleaning up and getting back into civvies we ventured to the Orange Cafe in Whanganui for a late lunch and beverage. Lia’s salad was possibly the pick of the selection. Suitably rehydrated we piled back into the club van back to Wellington.
Our muddy boots would need a thorough cleaning after our adventurous romp to Trains Hut.