A group of 5 trampers did the Queen Charlotte Track to ring in the new year. As we were on our summer break, we decided to take the easy option and have a sea shuttle transport our overnight packs (with tents) to the campsite we’d be staying at each day – and we just walked with our day packs.
The transport operator was only able to drop packs off at certain jetties (Camp Bay, Torea Bay and Mistletoe Bay). So we did 66.5km of this 71km track – to ensure we wouldn’t be hiking for more than 7-8 hours per day – starting from the jetty at Resolution Bay, rather than from Ship Cove. This meant skipping the Ship Cove – Resolution Bay section of the Track (approx 2 hours/ 5km).
The track is long, but not steep and undulates. The elevation along the track ranges from sea level up to around 400m.
Day 1: Resolution Bay to Camp Bay (22km/ 7 hrs approx)
On the boat trip from Picton up to Resolution Bay, our skipper gave us a good commentary about Queen Charlotte Sound – the Maori history of the area, the long term and very labour intensive work that has been done to try and clear all the Wilding Pines (and the damage they do to the environment) and anecdotes about Captain Cook’s visits to the area.
We had a nice leisurely walk from Resolution Bay to Camp Bay in good weather. A few people on the trip have a keen interest in true crime and debated the Scott Watson case the whole way round Endeavour Inlet and as we passed through the grounds of Furneaux Lodge. It was a nice day at Furneaux Lodge and we stopped there to eat lunch on the front lawn.
There were views of stunning bays at close distance the whole way from Endeavour Inlet round to Camp Bay.
The campsite at Camp Bay is fairly small and most of it runs up a tiered hillside. Elizabeth enjoyed a swim while the rest of us set up our tents.
One of the group developed some pain on the soles of their feet and decided they would catch a sea shuttle from Camp Bay to our destination the next day (being dropped off at Torea Bay) to give her feet a rest. It was really fortunate that the boat trip could be booked while we were at Camp Bay – you just need to walk up to nearby Punga Cove Resort to make arrangements.
We came across a number of Te Araroa through – hikers along the track.
Day 2 (Friday) Camp Bay to Cowshed Bay (23km/ 8 hrs approx)
Today’s walk was meant to be the most challenging day – in terms of elevation gain and the number of kilometres. Bad weather was forecast for the afternoon, and we would be walking along the exposed ridgeline. But we were motivated by the fact that we had a booking for dinner at the Portage Hotel that night at 7pm! – so at least we wouldn’t need to start cooking when we arrived at our destination.
The first two spectacular views for the day were at the look outs at Totaranui view point and Eatwells Lookout (411m elevation). The short, steep trek from the main track up to Eatwells Lookout is well worth the walk.
We then continued on the main track and found a lovely grassy spot overlooking the Bay of Many Coves where we had lunch before the rain set in. Then it was on to Bay of Many Coves shelter for a quick toilet stop. It was interesting watching the two resident weka there entertaining a group of Americans who had also stopped for a break.
The sky started getting darker and the rain gradually became heavier as we continued on our way. By the time we arrived at Black Rock campsite the rain had really set in. We stopped to gather our resolve at Black Rock shelter for the final 2 hour leg of the day to Torea Saddle/ Cowshed Bay. But we were so keen to get out of the rain that it only took us an hour to get to our destination!
Day 3 (Saturday) Cowshed Bay to Mistletoe Bay (8km/ 4hrs approx)
Three of the group headed off early while Elizabeth and Jacqui took a more relaxed pace. The track continued along the ridgeline and it was drizzling with a lot of gloomy gray cloud – although this created quite a dramatic atmosphere as you looked out at Queen Charlotte Sound and at Picton in the distance. One lovely sight Jacqui and Elizabeth saw along the way was a Captain Cook- style ship sailing on Queen Charlotte Sound and we also saw two Interislander ferries crossing paths, travelling in opposite directions.
Two of the group took a one hour return deviation from the main track up to Onahau Look out (403 m) for lunch. Spectacular views over both Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds. We met a lovely Finnish girl who has been travelling around NZ and she told us about life in Finland and Lapland – it was – 30 degrees back in Finland and she said a lot of people in Finland have saunas in their homes.
It was then just a short walk down to Mistletoe Bay campsite. This is a really nice private campsite – such luxury! – hot showers ($2 for 4 mins), a canteen, soap available at each hand basin and flush toilets. There’s also a kitchen with microwave/ hotplates/ hot water etc too. We also enjoyed meeting Yanni the Alpaca who lives in the field next to the kitchen.
However, when we went to collect our overnight packs from the jetty at Mistletoe Bay one of the group found that the shoulder strap of their pack had been ripped off. So i would think twice about getting your overnight packs transported by boat or opting for a service (which we had taken up when staying the previous night at Cowshed Bay) – of having your overnight pack delivered for you to the jetty at Torea Bay for the sea shuttle to collect.
Day 4 (Sunday) Mistletoe Bay to Anakiwa (12.5km/ 4hrs approx)
This was the best day weather-wise for us. There were stunning views of many different bays the whole way round to Anakiwa. Grove Arm veiw point – which is actually on the main track – is an excellent spot for a photo as you can see all the way up Queen Charlotte Sound in the distance.
Most of us had a nice lunch stop at Davies Bay – it has a very different feel and layout than the other bays, with a large flat grassy area next to the water.
It was scrorching hot when we arrived at Anakiwa. There’s a caravan on the right hand side very soon after you finish the track which stocks ice creams and cold drinks etc which was a very pleasing sight for all of us! It was also great to see the Outward Bound School which is located very close to the end of the track too.
We enjoyed the beach and the sunshine at Anakiwa while we waited for our sea shuttle to arrive and take us back to Picton so we could catch the evening ferry back to Wellington.