It was timely that the Wilderness magazine had an article on negotiating scree, given that our descent from Te Atuaoparapara peak involved just that!
We left Wellington train station at 5.30 pm on Friday and arrived at the road end (North Block road) at around 9.30 pm. It was then a 10 min walk to Triplex Hut, and we were tucked up in bed by 10 pm.
On Saturday we woke early to a bluebird day. We said goodbye to the Easy group (at 7.45 am) and headed up to Sunrise Hut – smashing the easy benched track up to the hut in 1 hr 45 mins. After a further 10 mins, we made it up to Armstrong Saddle, where we looked back towards Sunrise Hut and and then on ahead of us. Our goal was to climb Te Atuaoparapara (a prominent peak in the Ruahine Ranges).
The first bit of ascent up through leatherwood was tough in the heat and the slight breeze was a god send! The trail is easy-ish to follow. Once out of the leatherwood, it opens up to tussock, alpine plants and rock. We spotted the wonderful mountain buttercup and Edelweiss (See: https://teara.govt.nz/en Edelweiss). Winding up past increasingly impressive rock bluffs and slips, we arrived at the trig on top of Te Atuaoparapara very hot and sweaty. It is approximately 4 hours from Triplex Hut.
After a welcome cool down, we embarked on the descent. This bit needs care and in good conditions it is fine, if you take your time (do not attempt this in high winds or snow/ice without gear and the required skills – it would be gruelling). First there is a bit of a rock outcrop to sidle around – but plenty to hold onto. Then there is a vertical scree slope to get down. Unfortunately, it is not the “fun” type of scree you can run down (it isn’t deep enough), but that really annoying “gulp, if I slip I’m going down vertically” type scree. Deep breaths, sideways boot placement, a hiking pole and using a zig zag technique descent works wonders. When you reach the foot of the scree, be prepared to look back at the gradient of the slope! You’ll want to take a pic! (but probably don’t show your mum!)
From there, it is a very easy descent across the tarns and onto the spur that descends to Waipawa Saddle. Then down through a riverbed and past a beautiful waterfall you arrive at a nice wide river, the wonderful orange and blue Waikamaka Hut (courtesy of the Heretaunga Tramping Club) and the chefs kiss of dunnies – the rocket toilet! Dunking in the river was such a welcome relief after the afternoon heat – it was top of the priority list! We had a wonderful lazy afternoon in the shade of Waikamaka Hut and were tucked up in bed and asleep by 8 pm.
The following day it was an early start. We wound back up the riverbed to the saddle, and then descended on the other side down to Waipawa River. The travel is easy and fast – some boulders to step over and very little need to get feet wet. We reached Waipawa Forks Hut after 2 hours.
We took the river again – which was even faster travel – with a low water level and a flat, wide riverbed. We reached Triplex Hut carpark after an hour or so.
After a quick cool down dip, we walked up the beautiful swamp track (a wonderful fern filled ex-swamp) and met the Easy group at the van just after 11 am.
Video of the trip made by Aaron: Te Atuaoparapara – Ruahine Forest Park – Hawke’s Bay
Stats:
There are a few trip reports online that give some very conservative time estimates. One trip report published in the Wilderness magazine estimated it taking 5-6 hours to get to Waipawa Forks Hut from the car park (whereas it only took us 1-2 hours ). Please take these timings in the context of conditions on the day – we had pristine weather in summer, a very low river, and a MF group.
Day 1: Triplex Hut to Sunrise Hut, over Te Atuaoparapara peak, down Waipawa Saddle and to Waikamaka Hut:
• Distance – 12.45 km
• Ascent – 1400 m
• Descent – 926 m
• Timings (with breaks) Triplex Hut to Waikamaka Hut – 6.56 hrs (6.32 hrs moving time)
Day 2: Waikamaka Hut to Waipawa Forks Hut, river and swamp track to Triplex Hut car park:
• Distance – 10.17 km
• Ascent – 357 m
• Descent – 876 m
• Timings (with breaks) – Waikamaka Hut to road end (Triplex car park) 4 hrs.