Unconventional SK and a scramble up and down memory lane

Having had my West Coast dreams crushed by the wet weather over the Christmas break, I was waiting for a fine spell to do something local but interesting, which presented itself in the form of a Carkeek SK (Schormann’s-Kaitoke) with a twist in the first week of January.

Several people in the club had been training for a sub-48hhr Main Range SK. At over 80km and 7,000m elevation, doing this route so quickly had never been on my to do list! However the idea of traversing the range from North to South and putting together all these familiar places over the course of a few more days was enticing. As a yet-to-recover-Carkeek-addict, my version of a SK had to deviate from the classic main range route to visit the remotest hut in the Tararua. Having lined up drop off and pick up thanks to generous offers from Helen and Emily, I packed for five days.

Saturday – Stroll into Herepai hut (2hrs, 600m elev gain, 5.5km)

After catching a Wairarapa bus that said “Choo Choo I’m a train”, Helen and her friend dropped me off at Putara road end before lunch. Low dark clouds hovered over the range, and while I was ready to push on to Dundas Hut that day I wasn’t fully committed to the idea in that weather.

The walk into Herepai Hut was straightforward, up the fairly muddy but straightforward track. I remembered my first time at Herepai Hut in 2019, where three of us from WTMC had intended to go to Roaring Stag Hut, only to find out a man had been brewing dozens of litres of beer over that summer and had invited friends to drink it all up that night. We had back tracked to Herepai Hut, had an early night and even pancakes for breakfast.

As I got to Herepai Hut that day, light winds turned to gales, rain started and visibility was low. It was an easy call to stay put until the next day, and I used the rest of the afternoon to replenish firewood, clean the hut and a couple of mattresses that were covered in sticky chewing gum – gross.

Sunday – Mt Dundas, Arete Hut, Carkeek Hut (12hrs, 2,600m elev gain, 22.5km)

With a long day ahead of me, I was ready to head off at 6.30am when a trail runner stopped at Herepai Hut for water. She was starting a sub-24hr Tarn SK, and I later found out she had closed the deal in 18 hours and 4 minutes!

The day started in miserable visibility and freezing Southerly gusts – typical Tararua. I made my way to East Peak where it started to clear, meaning I could easily pick my way down and back up to West Peak without trouble – a section known to be confusing in the clag. As I made my way towards the junction for Dundas Hut, the weather continued to clear, and I remembered completing the Dundas Loop with James W and Mon a couple of years prior, with faraway views of Ruapehu that were nowhere to be seen this time.

The tops between Pukemoremore and Arete Hut were straightforward. The weather was now perfect – clear skies and light wind. Hat, sunscreen and sunglasses came out as I stopped for lunch and bagged the last 1500m peaks of the Tararua that were on my list – Logan and Mt Dundas.

Looking over the range, I could see the Bannister ridge where James W, Matt P and I were last November, also in incredible weather. I checked our names in the hut book as I stopped for a break at Arete Biv, thankful that I was still feeling a lot more energised than on my last visit. At the top of Lancaster, I stopped for a microbreak and contemplated Carkeek Ridge, reminiscing about my last trip with Jamie, Lyns and Sarah H as we finally reached Carkeek Hut for the first time, picnicking our way across the Tararua.

There was more walking to do before getting to Carkeek Hut though, some ups and downs and route finding to try and follow animal tracks. Once there, I still had some daylight to start cleaning the mould off a couple of mattresses and was quickly joined by a couple who lent me a hand. We watched the sunset from a bit further up from the hut, and called it a night.

Monday – Park Forks, Nichols, Anderson Memorial hut, Aokaparangi, Maungahuka hut (12hrs 45mins, 2,300m elev gain, 23km)

I was excited about the day ahead as I was about to tick off another item off my Tararua bucket list: Park Forks. An unofficial track starts behind Carkeet Hut. Having been tidied up and marked with tape by GWBN in the last couple of years, it is relatively easy to follow, but also easy to lose if not paying close attention.

I got down to the river without trouble, and found two large triangles indicating two other unofficial tracks to Dorset Ridge and to Nichols. I took the latter, and started up a fairly frustrating section. The track is marked for those heading down, making it difficult to see and follow the markers as you make your way up. For the first 200-300m elevation and until you finally reach a more distinct spur, the travel is a bit random, steep, and scrambly. Emerging out of the bushline and onto the tops was a relief. More clear skies and views for days. (Carkeek Hut down to Park Forks: 1.5hrs; Park Forks up to Nichols: 1.5hrs).

From the top of Nichols I could just spot Tuiti and Tunui and knew my destination for the night, Maungahuka Hut, was just before them. It looked very, very far away. What had I gotten myself into?!

I looked down at Nichols Hut and remembered a crowded night four years prior, where Mon, Jamie, Tash and I had done a section of the main range and dubbed it “Mini SK“. Memories of gooseberry gossips and chateau stories came to mind.

But for today there was just me and my thoughts and my wet hot boots were starting to rub in an uncomfortable way, a problem I hadn’t experienced before. With only myself to blame for this descent into type 2 fun, I pushed on to Anderson Memorial Hut for a short lunch, before carrying on south. As the désillusion crept in, I reflected on the fact that the SK really offers something for everyone – if one doesn’t like going uphill, there is plenty of downhill – and vice versa: if one doesn’t like going down, there is plenty of up! What’s not to like really.  

Leapfrogging with Te Araroa (TA) walkers along the ridgeline, I soaked in the views and tried to ignore the friction and burgeoning blisters all over my feet as I pushed on and finally made it to Maungahuka Hut, only to find it full to the brim with 23 people for 10 bunks, a good half of them TA walkers. I unrolled my mat under the table and managed a decent night sleep sardined amongst many others on the floor.

Tuesday – Neill Forks Hut, Cone ridge, Tutuwai Hut (11hrs 15mins, 1,400m elev gain, 21km)

In the morning, I had a quick chat with someone who had bivvied out the deck and was completing a Main Range SK, only to find out later he was one of the WTMC members who had trained for a sub-48hr traverse, Aaron!

Although probably safe, I decided it would be more enjoyable to drop down. I had gone over the infamous Tararua ladder in perfect weather with Jamie in January 2024 and saw no need to repeat the experience in poor visibility or cold winds. My poor toes were also begging for a slightly shorter day and a rinse in cold river water.

I quickly got below bushline and warmed up. I treated myself to a hot brew at Neill Forks Hut and slogged back up onto Cone Ridge. By then I could feel the fatigue of the previous day creep up on me, along with increasingly painful feet. I pushed on, whistling silly songs and calling on more pleasant tramping memories to keep myself distracted.

I walked the last stretch to Tutuwai Hut at that delightful time of day where the golden evening light filters through the bush. A refreshing swim in the river and I walked up to the hut, almost as tidy as we left it after a few of us gave it a good clean last October. 

Wednesday – Out to Kaitoke (5hrs 30mins, 500m elevation gain, 16km)

Having walked this last section many times over the years for day trips and overnight trips, the last leg of this trip was fairly uneventful – which I was pleased with as after finding Joe Gibbs hut in 2023, I had walked out feeling sore and was badly hit by covid the next day. 

The people I stayed with at the hut were the highlight of my last day, with two of them offering me hikers wool – which I very gratefully accepted to salvage what was left of my toes on the way out; while the two other ladies who happened to be HVTC members kindly gave me a ride out to the nearest train station, saving me waiting for an evening pick up. 

Epilogue

There is something to be said for how much I have benefited from WTMC over the years – from a complete tramping newbie on my first ever overnight trip in 2015, bringing the wrong gear and worrying about having wet boots; all the way to completing a solo traverse of the Tararua – making friends and memories along the way. I can finally tick off the SK of my long Tararua wishlist and while I thought I’d be able to take my time over four and a bit days, it was no walk in the park. Incredible views over these hills that feel like home now. Minimum breaks, long days, big elevation gain. The mighty Tararua Range still holds up to its grunty reputation! 

Segment	Approx elevation gain	DOC estimate	Routeguide estimate	Actual time
Putara Rd to Herepai Hut	650m	2h	2h	2h
To Dundas junction	1450m	5h	4.5-5h	4h20
To Arete Hut	300m	5h	3h	3h
To Carkeek Hut	400m	3-4h	4h	4h
To Nicholls	650m	4.5h	4.5h	3h45
To Anderson Memorial Hut	500m	2h	3.5h	2h45
To Aokaparangi	600m	3h	3.5h	3.5h
To Maungahuka Hut	500m	3-4h	3h	2.5h
To Kime Hut	1000m	7-9h	5h	/
To Alpha Hut	600m	3-4h	4.5h	/
Out to Kaitoke	300m	7-9h	7h	/
To Neill Forks Hut	100m	2h	3h	2.5h
To Cone Hut	900m	?	4.5-5h	6h
To Tutuwai Hut	n/a	1h	1.5h	1h15
Out to Kaitoke	500m	7-8h	6.5h	5.5h