Hi Gareth,
I’ve only just spotted this message as I’m seldom ever on this forum. I’ve done the Whakapapa > Turoa then Turoa > Whakapapa trip a couple of times but not via the Ruapehu summit, and I don’t think I’d want to go that way. There’s some hidden and open crevasses on the NE slope below the Tahurangi summit toward the crater and it’s usually shady and icy after lunch time. I took a route via Mangaturuturu Glacier which I think took me about 6 hours. You’d need to pick your snow and weather conditions right and head out early and be prepared to turn back if cloud rolls in. The first time I did it, I left a bit late in the day and luckily got back to the lodge under moonlight which wasn’t ideal but I know the way down Whakapapa in poor light. But I should have taken a head torch. I used touring bindings with skins to make the climbing much easier. I can’t imagine plugging the sort of distances required in ski boots. Fitter folks might be OK with it. On a sunny day you’ll sweat a fair bit so take heaps of water, and re-fill when you get to one of the cafes at Turoa. Would be a good idea to take emergency survival gear including shovel, axe, transceiver, PLB, groundsheet, survival blanket or sleeping bag, GPS (in case of poor visibility) and extra thermal clothing in case you need to dig a snow-cave for the night.
The route I took was to hike up from the top of the Far West T-bar to the crater plateau SW of Dome Shelter, head SW across a gully below Paretetaitonga to Mangaturuturu Glacier, drop about 150m then traverse South toward the main Turoa ski area. Depending how low you go, the route should lead to the Organ Pipes area and with good snow cover, to Broadbents trail and the base area.
For the return to Whakapapa (after stopping for water and hot chips) traverse North West from the top of the High Noon express as far out as possible before reaching a spot below a tall ridge. At this point the left thigh will be screaming for a rest. From there look up and start hiking toward the South of Paretetaitonga which is the same saddle you would have come from, and eventually you’ll spot your tracks made on your way to Turoa. Head back to Whakapapa the same way you went up, toward the Far West T-Bar. If the snow condition is good, you’re in for some lovely untracked turns, in both directions. After a snowfall allow a few days for the snow-pack to settle and pay attention to the avalanche safety ratings. Ideal time to do this trip would be Spring with a stable snow pack, but watch for large icy areas near the crater plateau. Expert level skiing experience required, and snow-craft knowledge would be ideal. When you’re done, throw some odor-eater powder into the ski boots because they’ll be reeking.
Good luck.
– CB
