Bouldering at Turakirae Head

On an unusually warm day in mid May, a chatty crew of six climbers and myself made our way out to Turakirae Head to session a few of the many boulders dotting the South Coast. Antonia was able to source four bouldering pads, which we divvied between us as we ambled the first half hour to the prominent Wavelength boulder.

After scoping the Wavelength boulder out, we opted to save this tall formidable one for later and carry on to the main Bronx area. After a navigational error or two, we found our way to the Bronx. The key tip here is to not follow the first wide path off the right-hand side, but to the second path off the right. The Crag website has a clear map of the location to help steer you.

There are a huge range of routes to get into at the Bronx and plenty of short beginner to intermediate options.

We ended up getting in several routes, with some of the best on the face of the Clark boulder and the Shark boulder. The last few routes we checked out were around boulder ‘12’ which is marked on the Turakirae Boulders website and in the NZAC Rock Deluxe North guide. While there were a handful of crash pads stashed at the crag near the ‘12’ boulder, we were glad we brought ours – the ones stashed are in pretty rough shape and as it was a popular day, not too many were left.

All up we had an excellent full day bouldering and left plenty to return to – until next time!

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